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FACE & DECOLLETAGE FIRMING SERUM with dermo-filler & coenzyme Q10

Welcome to the Part II of the exclusive summer formulations made with ingredients from my all-time favorite skincare ingredient supplier - Elemental.


Click here to read Part I and make PURIFYING MARINE jelly mask.


For those who never shopped at Elemental here is a quick recap and the main reason why I love their online store:

  • a great assortment of skincare ingredients,

  • great formulating tools and equipment,

  • high-quality cosmetic containers,

  • fast shipping with inexpensive shipping rates,

  • good expiry dates of the ingredients,

  • friendly customer support,

  • MSDS and TDS are available to download on the site (so you don't need to send any annoying e-mails requesting one).

They ship to European and non-European countries like USA, Canada, Japan and to the rest of the world. You can check their delivery time, countries and rates here or contact them to see if they can ship to wherever you are located.


To read more about how my collaboration with Elemental started read my previous blog.


What are we making today?


Today's formula goes out to all my Sucragel and oleogel enthusiasts that fell in love with this versatile ingredient the first time they worked with it. And things will get just a little bit more exciting when I tell you, that you will learn how to make an emulsion with Sucragel in this blog post (if you never worked with Sucragel before this blog post might come in handy).


A gorgeous, face & decolletage firming serum with dermo-filler & coenzyme Q10 is a low-viscosity emulsion, with an amazing spread and skin feel that just sinks into the skin and leaves it ultra-hydrated, soft, silky and divinely scented with feminine floral notes.

The special formula was created to tighten and tone the face and decolletage, improving the skin's texture, making it even, firm and smooth. The result is a light serum rich in anti-age, antioxidant, moisturizing ingredients and skin-firming enhancers.


More good news:

I was testing different manufacturing methods to see the difference in stability of the formula and in this blog post I will teach you how to make the formula without any fancy lab equipment, hand-stirred and cold-processed. The hand-stirred formula I made is currently stable for 3 months at RT.


Avoid using high-shear methods since the formula uses hyaluronic acid. You could alternatively use a gelling agent and a humectant instead of it.


Let's see which ingredient I used and why, then get to the formula and method so you can make this divine, silky creaminess with me!



INGREDIENTS


ROSE HYDROSOL (INCI: rosa damascena flower water)

Rose hydrosol is known for its toning, mildly astringent, regenerative and anti-wrinkle properties. It has a gorgeous scent and is one of the most popular floral waters in natural skincare formulations. Elemental's floral waters are produced without added alcohol or preservatives.


CORNFLOWER HYDROSOL (INCI: centaurea cyanus flower water)

Known for its soothing and cooling properties, toning and tightening skin, relieves itchy, puffy or tired eyes, and helps with bruising. If you never worked with cornflower water add this to your shopping list because the skin loves it and the scent is amazing!


DERMO-FILLER (INCI: water, propanediol, ornithine, phospholipids, glycolipids)

A wrinkle filler active ingredient has been designed to mimic lipofilling results. It targets the appearance of structural aging and plumps up the skin. In this formula it has been used to improve facial and decolletage appearance and rejuvenate the skin's texture.


HYALURONIC ACID LMW (INCI: sodium hyaluronate)

Sodium Hyaluronate is a highly effective humectant and is widely used in cosmetics, being suitable for different skins, climates and environments. LMW (low molecular weight) type provides a lasting moisturizing effect, good absorption and permeability, and increases hydration rapidly.

HYALURONIC ACID HMW (INCI: sodium hyaluronate)

The difference between high and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is that (simply put) LMW has smaller molecules, and can accordingly reach the deeper layers of skin and retain the skin's moisture content. The larger molecules in HMW Hyaluronic acid, remain closer to the surface, where they can deliver the most visible results with a shorter lifespan.

The HMW also plays a vital role in this formula as a thickening, gelling and emulsion stabilization agent. If you will be leaving the HMW out of the formula make sure to replace it with another gelling agent or gum.


EMULSIFIER ALFA / SUCRAGEL CF (INCI: Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate)

A natural liquid emulsifier, that acts as an oil thickening agent and cold process emulsifier. Holds oils in place in a stable micro-emulsion and when water is added the mix changes into a cream or a light lotion, giving countless possibilities for formulators.

MARULA OIL (INCI: Sclerocarya Birrea seed oil)

A luxury oil rich in antioxidants, deeply nourishing, helps restore a radiant tone of complexion. A beauty oil for younger-looking skin with a satin finish. Marula oil is extracted from the seeds of the fruit produced by the African savannah tree, Sclerocarya Birrea. Marula oil is a valuable resource for cosmetic applications, it contains a high percentage of oleic fatty acid and has high oxidative stability.


DAISY OIL (INCI: helianthus annuus seed oil, bellis perennis flower extract)

Used in cosmetic applications for toning effect, helps restore firmness to the skin, ideal for the care of the decolletage, the bust and neck. Can be used in formulations intended to revitalize and support maturing skin and skins lacking elasticity, and sculpt and firm the skin.

SACHA INCHI OIL (INCI: Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil)

An outstanding oil with softening and nutritious qualities that promotes hydration and soothes the skin, an excellent choice for use in anti-aging, and regenerative cosmetics. The oil obtained from the seeds of the Sacha Inchi plant native to Peru is rich in omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids.

ACMELLA EXTRACT (INCI: caprylic/capric triglyceride, spilanthes acmella flower extract)

A concentrated firming and wrinkle smoothing active ingredient. Targets cell communication to reorganize and retighten the dermal architecture. Has a natural lifting and smoothing effect, visibly reducing deep wrinkles and firming the skin. Helps to fade out wrinkles and reduces the most obvious sign of aging. Has a stimulating action on cellular dynamism.


COENZYME Q10 (INCI: Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ubiquinone)

A restoring and protecting agent, that combines the benefit of Q10 and Vitamin E. Powerful antioxidant, offers firmer, softer and well-toned skin.

GERANIUM BOURBON/ROSE GERANIUM ESSENTIAL OIL (INCI: Pelargonium graveolens oil)

An intense floral scent with a hint of citrus and green notes, a lovely uplifting aroma. It is frequently used in formulas for its tightening and brightening effect, sometimes also in formulas with soothing and antimicrobial activity. It rounds up the scent of this cream perfectly, along with the floral waters used in the formula delivering a feminine scent.

COSGARD (INCI: benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerin, sorbic acid)

A preservation system that meets the Ecocert standards, with broad-spectrum activity on bacteria, yeast and molds. It has a low odor profile and a good safety profile.

 

FACE & DECOLLETAGE FIRMING SERUM with dermo-filler & coenzyme Q10



Equipment:

  • 3x glass beaker

  • mini whisk

  • mini spatula

  • spoons

  • pipette

  • ph strips/ph meter

  • pump bottle

  • scale

  • ethanol

Formula in % and grams (30g):

A1

Rose hydrosol 50% | 15g

Cornflower hydrosol 20.7% | 6.21g

Dermo-filler 1.5% | 0.45g

A2

Hyaluronic acid hmw 1% | 0.30g

Hyaluronic acid lmw 0.2% | 0.06g

B1

Emulsifier Alfa (Sucragel CF) 6% | 1.80g

B2

Marula oil 8% | 2.40g

Daisy oil 5% | 1.50g

Sacha Inchi oil 2% | 0.60g

Acmella extract 2% | 0.60g

Coenzyme Q10 2% | 0.60g

Geranium Bourbon pure essential oil 1% | 0.30g


C

Cosgard 0.6% | 0.18g



Method

  1. Disinfect all the equipment and surfaces.

  2. Combine phase A1 and add phase A2 powders. Mix well and set aside to rest meanwhile you prepare and make phase B. Don't worry if there are some small lumps left.

  3. Put the emulsifier in a small glass beaker and mix for approximately 30 seconds with a mini whisk, until it becomes whitish. Mix all the ingredients from phase B2 in a separate beaker and grab a pipette or a small spoon if you don't have one.

  4. Add 3 drops of B2 oily mixture to the B1 whitish emulsifier and mix vigorously for at least 15 seconds. Repeat the process by adding a small amount of oily mixture to the emulsifier and make sure to mix well after each addition. Once you added approximately 1/3 of the mixture, you can start adding a bit larger amounts at once (5-7 drops). Once you will notice the mixture starting to look like an oleogel you can add up to 10 drops at once, still mixing well after each addition. This whole process takes approximately 15 minutes if stirred by hand with a mini whisk.

  5. Get back to phase A and stir it. You should end up with a gel, lump-free mixture. Once your hydrogel and oleogel are prepared it is time to make the emulsion.

  6. Gradually pour phase A into phase B, stirring thoroughly for 2-3 minutes.

  7. Add the preservative and mix well.

  8. Measure the pH. (No adjusting was needed, the emulsion had a ph of 5.5.)

  9. Transfer to a sterilized pump bottle.


I got this beautiful dropper frosted glass bottle (Glass bottle Laura Frosted), but in the end, I found the texture of the serum more appropriate for a pump bottle since it is a little too thick for a dropper bottle. So if I had to choose again I would order the lotion pump also available with the same gorgeous frosted bottle or this lovely Aurora airless bottle.


Enjoy making this lightweight, floral-scented, skin-loving serum! If you have any questions regarding the formula, please comment below this blog post ;).


WANT TO MAKE MORE DIY SKINCARE?


I just launched a new e-book SUMMER ESSENTIALS: Skincare recipes with 10 ingredients or less!

Active-boosted formulas with simple methods and readability available ingredients are here for all skincare formulators craving some summer fun, creativity and new formulating knowledge.






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